The Knit Help Desk: Mastering Knits & Purls Edition

Welcome to The Knitting Help Desk! We’re here to answer your burning knitting questions and help you tackle those tricky stitches. Whether you’re picking up your needles for the first time or have been knitting for years, we’ve got some helpful tips to keep you knitting like a pro.

Q1: How do I stop my stockinette from curling at the edges?

A: Ah, the infamous stockinette curl! It’s a sneaky little problem that’s caused by the natural tension difference between your knit stitches (on the front) and your purl stitches (on the back). Since stockinette fabric wants to curl inward on itself, you’ll often find the edges of your projects rolling up when working in this stitch.

The easiest way to solve this is by adding a non-curling border. A few rows of garter stitch or ribbing along the edges of your project work wonders to balance out that tension. If you’re working on a scarf, for example, try adding 4-6 stitches of garter stitch on either side, or work ribbing (like a 1×1 or 2×2 rib) for the first few rows. The added structure will keep your project from rolling up without sacrificing the smooth look of the stockinette body.

If you’re already deep into a project and want to fix curling after the fact, blocking your work can help. Use steam or wet blocking to coax the edges to stay flat, but keep in mind that this is often a temporary fix. If you want permanent results, a structural border is your best bet!

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Q2: What’s the best way to fix a dropped stitch without unraveling everything?

A: Dropping a stitch can be a real moment of panic, but don’t worry—you won’t have to unravel everything to fix it! The key is to act fast and secure that dropped stitch before it travels down too many rows.

First, find a small crochet hook. You don’t have to be a crocheter to use one—they’re actually a knitter’s secret weapon when it comes to fixing mistakes. Identify which stitch you dropped (is it a knit or a purl?), then carefully insert the crochet hook into the dropped loop.

If it’s a knit stitch, pull the loop through the strand above it from back to front. Keep repeating this process, one strand at a time, until you’ve worked your way back to the current row. If it’s a purl stitch, you’ll do the same thing, but pull the loop through from front to back. Once the stitch is back where it belongs, slip it back onto your needle and keep knitting like nothing happened!

If the dropped stitch has run down too far, it might be easier to frog (rip back) a few rows. But when it’s just one stitch, your trusty crochet hook will save you from a full unravel!

Q3: My tension is all over the place. How do I get it even?

A: Getting consistent tension is one of those skills that improves with practice, but a few techniques can help you smooth out your stitches. The way you hold your yarn makes a big difference, so start by adjusting how the yarn flows through your fingers. Try wrapping the yarn around your pinky and over your index finger to give it more control, or experiment with different grips until you find one that feels natural and comfortable.

If your stitches are too tight, you might be pulling the yarn too firmly. Loosen your grip just a little to let the yarn flow more freely, and don’t yank your stitches too snug against the needle. If your tension is too loose, on the other hand, try knitting with smaller needles or pay closer attention to how much slack you’re giving the yarn.

It’s also important to take breaks when you’re knitting for long periods. Tired hands often lead to inconsistent tension because your muscles can become tense without you even realizing it. A relaxed hand makes for relaxed knitting, so stretch, rest, and give your hands some love!

And of course, blocking your finished project can also help even out your stitches. It’s like a final touch that smooths everything over and gives your knitting that polished, professional look.

Q4: How do I join in a new skein of yarn without making it look bulky?

A: Joining a new skein of yarn mid-project can feel intimidating, but there’s a clever trick to make it almost seamless: the magic knot! This method ties two pieces of yarn together securely, leaving you with a clean, invisible join that won’t unravel.

Here’s how it works: Take the end of your old yarn and the end of your new yarn. Tie a simple knot in the old yarn around the new yarn, then tie a simple knot in the new yarn around the old yarn. Pull the two knots together tightly until they “lock” in place. Then, tug firmly on both sides to make sure it’s secure. Snip the ends close to the knot, and you’re good to go!

The beauty of the magic knot is that it’s small and smooth enough to blend into your knitting without leaving bulky tails. You can keep knitting without even noticing the join, and no need to weave in extra ends later!

If you’d prefer not to use a knot, you can also try the “overlap” method, where you knit a few stitches holding both the old and new yarn together. This creates a slightly thicker section, but it’s often less noticeable than weaving in a bulky tail at the end.

Q5: Any tips for making my cast-on edge looser?

A: If your cast-on edge is too tight, it can cause all kinds of problems—especially when your project needs a bit of stretch, like in socks or hats. A simple trick to loosen things up is to go up a needle size (or two) when casting on. Once the stitches are on the needle, you can switch back to the appropriate size for the rest of your project.

Another great option is to use a stretchy cast-on method, like the long-tail cast-on. This method naturally gives you more flexibility, making it perfect for projects where a tighter edge would restrict movement. The long-tail method also has the bonus of being quicker and more efficient once you get the hang of it!

If you’re working on something that really needs to stretch, like a sock cuff or a neckline, you can try even stretchier cast-on techniques, like the German Twisted Cast-On or the Surprisingly Stretchy Cast-On. Both methods create a super elastic edge that still looks neat and professional.

Q6: How do I avoid ladders when knitting in the round?

A: Ladders can sneak in when there’s a slight gap between the last stitch of one needle and the first stitch of the next, creating a visible vertical line in your knitting. The key to avoiding ladders is to keep your tension consistent between needles, but there are also a few tricks to make this easier.

One of the simplest fixes is to give the first two stitches on each new needle an extra tug, tightening them a little more than usual. This extra tension will help keep the gap closed. Another technique is to shift the stitches periodically—after a few rounds, slide a couple of stitches from the beginning of each needle to the end of the previous one. This prevents ladders from forming in the same place and smooths out the join.

If you’re still struggling with ladders, consider switching to magic loop or two circular needles. Both methods let you adjust the tension more easily by keeping the yarn flow steady between the two halves of your project, giving you a cleaner, ladder-free finish.

This video is a tutorial for the Adore You socks, it’s knitted entirely in the round on 9″ circular needles.